Deck Rules

The rules of deck building:

  1. All decks must contain exactly 30 cards total. You cannot have any more or less.

  2. You can have up to 3 copies of common, rare and epic rarity cards

  3. You can only have 1 copy of each legendary rarity card in your deck.

There are also colour rules:

  1. If all the cards in deck match the colour of the selected Hero, your maximum MP is 10.

  2. If there is exactly one colour in the deck that does not match the colour of the selected Hero, your maximum MP is 5.

  3. If there are exactly two colours that do not match the colour of the selected Hero, your maximum MP is 3.

  4. If there are 3 colours that do not match the colour of the selected Hero, your maximum MP is 0.

Note that the colour rules are not enforced by the deck builder, so you can still include off-colour cards that exceed your maximum MP total. The most the game will do is provide a warning. However, barring very specific and special circumstances, you will not be able to play any card that has a higher MP cost than your total available MP.

Initial Choices

When creating your deck, the first thing you should do is decide which colours you want to use. A brief overview of each:

  • Red: direct damage to units and enemy player, Flight

  • Green: unit HP and player Life healing, Victory, Shield, Seal

  • Purple: Resonate, Halt, negate, return to hand, Attack down, Flight

  • Black: Revenge, Sacrifice, destroy

You should aim for either 1 or 2 colours in total, as 3 colours lowers your maximum MP by too much to make an effective plan.

After you decide your colours, you should choose a Hero Art which matches one of the colours of the deck you’ve chosen. Selecting the Hero Art will help shape the idea for your deck’s win condition.

When you decide what cards to place in your deck, keep in mind the following thoughts.

Win Condition

Defeating your opponent means bringing their Life down to 0 before they can do the same to you. For that reason, always have an idea of what your offensive threats are going to be.

Cards that work well as offensive threats are those with high Attack for their MP cost, the ability to gain more Attack through Resonate or Victory effects, Agility and/or Combo effects, damage dealing effects and Flight. Normally, deciding your colour(s) will help you determine which units will work offensively.

A few examples of good offensive units for each colour from the CORE set:

  • Red: B.B. Hood deals 4 damage when played and has the Rush effect, allowing you to both remove enemy units and deal quick damage.

  • Green: Makoto is cheap and has a useful Victory effect when she defeats opponents, meaning she can heal and increase her Attack.

  • Purple: Ibuki has Agility, as well as a very powerful Resonate effect that lets you pump her stats up very quickly. She can turn into a strong threat with only a few action card plays.

  • Black: Great Girros has extremely strong stats for its cost at 4MP for 3/7. While it has a downside of losing 3 Life when played, the presence on field is usually more than worth it

Red also has the unique ability of dealing damage directly to the opponent’s Life. Buffing and utilizing these effects can also play a part in your win condition.

Remember to think about your Hero Art and how it complements the win condition. For instance, Nergigante’s Spike Launch gets empowered by using cards like Great Girros.

For consistency, include as many copies as you can of the cards vital to your win condition. This gives you a greater chance to draw them during game play. Remember you can have up to a maximum of 3.

Some legendary cards can give you a huge advantage on board just by themselves, but keep in mind that you can only have 1 copy of each legendary in your deck. A single copy makes a deck centered only around the legendary very unreliable as you won’t have a game plan if the legendary is at the bottom of your deck. For that reason, think of them as extra bonuses rather than a centerpiece of your strategy.

Support and Removal

It’s one thing to deal damage, but your units must stay alive in order for them to keep on attacking. Each colour has their own unique methods of keeping their powerful units on field. Also, Attack bonuses will allow you to end games more quickly, denying your opponent a chance to counter attack. Think about your available support options in both action cards and support units from your colours chosen.

A great way to prevent your units from dying is to remove the opposing units, or at least enfeeble them so they can’t win against your selected units in each lane.

A brief overview of each colour and their available support and removals:

Red will often rely on damage dealing effects to destroy enemy units before they have a chance to fight back against your units. They can also make use of Flight to soar above enemy units and prevent them from blocking. Red also possesses several Attack boosting cards and effects.

Green has several support options, including increasing unit HP to survive counterattacks and Shield(s) to nullify damage. Most notably, Green has exclusive access to MP Boost, which will greatly accelerate how quickly your deck plays when used correctly. However, Green lacks any hard removal, instead relying on Seal which can lock away troublesome enemy abilities and Reset, which will return a unit’s stats to their initial values. Green also has a few options to buff the Attack of their units, outside of their unit’s Victory effects. 

Purple can make use of Halt effects to stop enemy units in their tracks and prevent them from both attacking and counterattacking. Halt may allow your units to win matchups when they were originally disadvantaged through stats alone. Purple can also negate your opponent’s actions under certain conditions, allowing you to secure and maintain a lead on board. They have the ability to grant Flight to their units, which can heavily swing the game in their favour. Finally, purple has Attack down effects to help win matchups, or can bounce targets to the EX Pocket.

Black can outright destroy opposing units with several different action cards, some requiring specific targets or for you to sacrifice a unit or your Life. For the most part, Black relies on the raw strength of their Sacrifice or Revenge activated units to win most lane battles, and has a good selection of buff cards to further strengthen their field presence.

MP Curve

Be very careful with your MP curve. Many other collectible card games share a similar principle where high cost cards are kept only to a few key cards to avoid drawing a hand with minimal options.

Since Teppen uses a constantly charging MP system, high cost units see more play at the start of the game more than anywhere else, as it’s the safest time to build MP up. During mid and endgames, higher cost cards will often become a liability, clogging your hand and not allowing you to get anything on field. Your opponent will normally have threats on board that you need quick responses for, if you haven’t already secured the lead. If you’re basing a deck around certain high cost cards (example: Hsien-Ko (CORE) or Dreadking Rathalos), they should have some inherent longevity and the capability of turning a game around or keeping control of the board in your favour.

That is to say, it’s not impossible nor necessarily a bad play to charge MP for a big unit or action during mid and endgame, but this often involves a good deal of risk taking. Even if you have advantage on board, there’s no telling what your opponent may do to change the situation while you wait for your MP for a big play.

As of writing, the minimum default cost of a unit is 3MP. The majority of units in your deck should be 3-5MP units, and this curve is actively enforced in dual-colour decks. Likewise, useful actions often hover in the 1-4MP range. 2MP action cards are especially notable as being capable of using the entirety of “free” 2MP from being played as a reaction in an action response chain without taking any stocked MP.

6 or higher MP cards are (usually) restricted to mono-colour decks, and they must have a strong justification for their inclusion. Generally speaking, you usually won’t want to have more than 5~6 cards at this cost level.

Unit and Action Ratio

In decks that are heavy in action cards over units, you’ll often find you open a game with nothing but action cards. If the target of all those action cards is only friendly units, then you’ll have lost the game right from the first draw. Here is a quick table to show the chance that you start the game with a full action card hand, given the number of action cards in your deck:
Action Cards in Deck vs. Chance of opening hand of 5 Actions
Number of Action Cards Chance of opening hand being all actions
13 0.1% (approx. 1 in every 111 games)
14 1.4% (approx. 1 in every 71 games)
15 2.1% (approx. 1 in every 47 games)
16 3.1% (approx. 1 in every 33 games)
17 4.3% (approx. 1 in every 23 games)
18 6.0% (approx. 1 in every 17 games)
19 8.2% (approx. 1 in every 12 games)
20 10.9% (approx. 1 in every 9 games)

However, keep in mind that not all action cards are unusable on an empty field. For example, Foresight can be played if your hand started as all actions, giving you two chances at drawing a unit (one draw for the effect of Foresight and the second draw to replace it in hand).

For any action-focused deck, decide your risk tolerance on a bad opener and plan your ratio of cards accordingly.


These points should give you a good starting point in how to discover and create your own strategies when building your deck. Remember that every rule of deckbuilding is malleable, so experiment, test with friends, try it a bit in ranked and have fun. Work hard to discover the next meta deck!

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